Mostly harmless

Stuff that matters and stuff that don't, not to be taken too seriously

Posts tagged WIWT

70 notes &

The British warm
Originally an overcoat issued for British officers during the Great War (aka First World War), like many other pieces of clothing that trace it’s origin back to the military, the British Warm eventually made a transition in to regular menswear. The original military version was always double breasted with peaked lapels, two flap pockets (one of which is behaving badly in the photo above), a single back vent, a breast pocket, featured six regimental buttons made of metal and was tailored to end just above the knee. Most of these features are present in the civil version, although nowadays a British Warm is usually worn slightly longer (at or below knees) and the regimental metal buttons are usually substituted with horn buttons.

The British warm

Originally an overcoat issued for British officers during the Great War (aka First World War), like many other pieces of clothing that trace it’s origin back to the military, the British Warm eventually made a transition in to regular menswear. The original military version was always double breasted with peaked lapels, two flap pockets (one of which is behaving badly in the photo above), a single back vent, a breast pocket, featured six regimental buttons made of metal and was tailored to end just above the knee. Most of these features are present in the civil version, although nowadays a British Warm is usually worn slightly longer (at or below knees) and the regimental metal buttons are usually substituted with horn buttons.

Filed under menswear WIWT crombie british warm featured

23 notes &

Gun-club
What we today call “gun club check” has it’s origin (like virtually all other estate tweed patterns) in Scotland. The original pattern was originally used by workers or gamekeepers in the Northwest Highlands and was known as “the Coigach” from the estate where it originated. 
However, history came to change it’s name - in 1874 the American Gun Clubs adopted the pattern for their own purposes, and since then the name “gun club” has been associated with the pattern. The original Coigach estate tweed featured black and red bands alternating evenly on a white field. However, nowadays  the term “gun club” encompass any pattern that includes alternating broken bands in two or more colours on a lighter ground. Modern “gun club checks” therefore can include just about any kind of color scheme. 

Gun-club

What we today call “gun club check” has it’s origin (like virtually all other estate tweed patterns) in Scotland. The original pattern was originally used by workers or gamekeepers in the Northwest Highlands and was known as “the Coigach” from the estate where it originated. 

However, history came to change it’s name - in 1874 the American Gun Clubs adopted the pattern for their own purposes, and since then the name “gun club” has been associated with the pattern. The original Coigach estate tweed featured black and red bands alternating evenly on a white field. However, nowadays  the term “gun club” encompass any pattern that includes alternating broken bands in two or more colours on a lighter ground. Modern “gun club checks” therefore can include just about any kind of color scheme. 

Filed under menswear WIWT BB belisario berg & berg Amanda Christensen Incotex featured

45 notes &

"The casual suit which does not overlap with the city suit look"
As opposed to the casual city-suit posted the other day, this is an example of a suit that is not very “city-like”. While this and the previous suit share the same basic pattern (PoW checks) the brown colour of today’s suit definitely push it further along the axis towards “country-like”. It therefore requires more casual accessories, like the wool/cashmere tie and merino cardigan in the picture, to achieve a coherent look. 

"The casual suit which does not overlap with the city suit look"

As opposed to the casual city-suit posted the other day, this is an example of a suit that is not very “city-like”. While this and the previous suit share the same basic pattern (PoW checks) the brown colour of today’s suit definitely push it further along the axis towards “country-like”. Itherefore requires more casual accessories, like the wool/cashmere tie and merino cardigan in the picture, to achieve a coherent look. 

Filed under WIWT austin reed belisario Andrew's Ties malford of london John Smedley featured

14 notes &

In the fading light of day
Shooting photos here at close to 64˚N is getting harder and harder as the days are rapidly growing shorter. The photo above was take at around 1.45 pm and there was barely enough daylight left to get even a half-decent shot. The worst thing is that we are still about a month away from winter solstice, so days are going to get even shorter and light will be even more scarce. Expect more crappy pics for the next few months. 

In the fading light of day

Shooting photos here at close to 64˚N is getting harder and harder as the days are rapidly growing shorter. The photo above was take at around 1.45 pm and there was barely enough daylight left to get even a half-decent shot. The worst thing is that we are still about a month away from winter solstice, so days are going to get even shorter and light will be even more scarce. Expect more crappy pics for the next few months. 

Filed under menswear WIWT ermenegildo zegna belisario atmosphere shibumi luxire

25 notes &

"The casual suit which overlaps with the city suit look"
This thread over on StyleForum has resurrected a long-lost thread entitled ”Practical thoughts on coherent combinations for beginners”. This thread focus on combining clothes ans accessories in a coherent manner along an axis of city-country clothing. The thread should be required reading for anyone that is beginning to be serious about they dress in general and in tailored menswear in particular. By diligently studying that thread and understanding why some things work or don’t work together, a fair amount of the train wrecks that are seen on the streets or the internets today could be avoided.

"The casual suit which overlaps with the city suit look"

This thread over on StyleForum has resurrected a long-lost thread entitled ”Practical thoughts on coherent combinations for beginners”. This thread focus on combining clothes ans accessories in a coherent manner along an axis of city-country clothing. The thread should be required reading for anyone that is beginning to be serious about they dress in general and in tailored menswear in particular. By diligently studying that thread and understanding why some things work or don’t work together, a fair amount of the train wrecks that are seen on the streets or the internets today could be avoided.

Filed under menswear styleforum WIWT

23 notes &

Trying out a new SC by Parisian tailoring house Cifonelli. I recently got this from fellow clothes enthusiast Dirnelli, who recently has been having a large wardrobe clean-out. This jacket is literally straight out of the box, with only a quick pressing this morning to take out the worst creases from shipping. I must say that the fit is pretty darn good. I guess it pays off to know your measurements when thrifting online….

Trying out a new SC by Parisian tailoring house Cifonelli. I recently got this from fellow clothes enthusiast Dirnelli, who recently has been having a large wardrobe clean-out. This jacket is literally straight out of the box, with only a quick pressing this morning to take out the worst creases from shipping. I must say that the fit is pretty darn good. I guess it pays off to know your measurements when thrifting online….

Filed under menswear WIWT cifonelli belisario Turnbull & Asser Tyrwhitt